Read e-book online Just Add Water: A Surfing Savant's Journey with Asperger's PDF

By Clay Marzo, Robert Yehling

From the simplest freestyle surfer on the earth, an inspiring and relocating memoir approximately his ascendance to the pinnacle of the browsing international whereas suffering for many of his younger lifestyles with undiagnosed Asperger’s syndrome

Clay Marzo has a virtually preternatural present with a surfboard. From his first moments underwater (he discovered to swim at months outdated) to his first ventures atop his father’s surfboard as a child, it was once seen that Marzo’s single-minded specialize in all issues browsing used to be targeted. yet no longer till past due in his youth, while this browsing phenom used to be clinically determined with Asperger’s syndrome, did the deeper purposes for his obsession—and his brilliant present for surfing—become clear.

Just upload Water is the extraordinary tale of Marzo’s upward thrust to the head of the professional browsing world—and the private trials he overcame in making it there. Marzo persisted a tricky adolescence. He was once a colicky child who his mom came across should be soothed merely with water. Later, as he entered institution, his undiagnosed Asperger’s made it tricky for him to narrate to his friends and slot in, yet his dating with the wave was once elemental. Marzo may well consistently flip to browsing, the one position the place he really felt at peace.

Unflinching and encouraging, Just upload Water is a courageous memoir from a unique browsing savant who has electrified lovers around the globe together with his reward and whose tale speaks boldly to the wish and supreme triumph of the human spirit.

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Additional info for Just Add Water: A Surfing Savant's Journey with Asperger's

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He lives very much in the present, that place where most of us want to be,” she says. “When the ocean’s going off and he’s not in it, he becomes uncomfortable in his skin. He has to feel it. He’s living, keeping it simple, and everyone’s trying to figure him out. Clay does not live in his ego. ” Her words reveal a deeper, fundamental reason why Clay will spend eight to ten hours in the ocean without food or water, risking dehydration and exhaustion. Her words allude to why he teeters at the intersection of ocean and earth, comfort and discomfort, aquatic graciousness and social awkwardness, attunement to the music of the sea and disdain for the noise on land, superhuman capabilities in water and clumsiness in normal living skills: Clay lives with Asperger’s syndrome, which is at the highest-functioning end of the autism spectrum.

My dad sometimes thought I was lazy and didn’t try hard enough, and I needed to focus more and work harder,” he recalls. “Then he would tell me, ‘It doesn’t matter that much. I barely made it through school, and look at me! ’ He worked a lot and didn’t ask much about school. He was always working.

He surveys the horizon, then the lineup, where waves peel in both directions from their breaking point. His mind works out the wave angles, where they break, how they break, and how the current and ever-present trade winds impact them. When wave faces approach fifteen feet, as they do at Windmills on this day, good choices can become life-saving choices. His focus is laserlike, absolute. Nothing can or will interrupt his concentration. After studying the waves for forty-five minutes, Clay grabs his board and moves toward the ocean.

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