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By Phillip Baxter Watts

Even if you are a newbie bouldering a low-angled face or an skilled climber flashing a course on-sight, mountain climbing may also help you discover one of many world's quickest turning out to be actions correctly and effectively. mountain climbing covers the fundamental recommendations in 4 types of loose mountain climbing: bouldering, top-roping, conventional major, and recreation prime. The booklet comprises forty seven full-color photographs that demonstrate Read more...

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Example text

Using a "twist­lock" to reach a high hold on overhanging rock.  This chapter concentrates on the anchor system and its integration with the rope to protect the climber.  Most top­rope set­ups will involve two anchor systems, one for the belayer and one for the rope.  Before using a natural anchor, check to make certain it is solid by vigorously tugging and pushing on it.  Of more concern is whether the tree is living and firmly rooted.  Place the runner close to the anchor' s base to minimize torque effects which could break or uproot the anchor.

Classic hand and foot jamming in a vertical crack.  For jams above the head, the hand may be inserted thumb down and torqued into a secure jam.  The thumb­up jam is most secure at face level and below.  A position that accepts the toe and ball of the foot usually provides maximum security.  Fist jams may be placed straight in, as if punching the crack, or reversed, with the palm facing out of the crack.  Since there is less ability to expand the hand in a fist position than in the hand­ jam position, it is important to recognize slight constrictions and pinches in the crack contours above which to place the fist.

Choose from the many types of quickdraws to attach your rope to the anchor.  The strength ratings of sewn quickdraw runners vary, but are usually over 20 kiloNewtons.  You will be able to do most bolted sport climbs with 8 to 10 quickdraws; however, longer routes may require 12 or more.  You can clip everything into a standard runner looped over your shoulder, but a padded gear rack sling ($12–$15) will be more comfortable.  As sport routes require only quickdraws, these harness gear loops are quite adequate.

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